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Knots to Know
the fine print: READ THIS!!
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WHAT KNOTS DO YOU NEED TO MASTER FOR CLIMBING? Beyond the Figure 8 Rethread, Figure 8 On A Bight or the Water Knot there are many knots that may help insure your success or survival on the rocks. However, it may just be the level or type of climbing that you participate in that will determine how many knots that you should have in your toolchest. You will find my basic list of Knots to Know below. You will find other helpful information on the 'Technical Downloads!' page. Check it out!
Figure 8 Rethread
Use(s): This is the preferred knot to use for tying into your harness. It is also commonly used for tying the ends of two retrievable rappel ropes together.
Helpful Hints: Gauge the proper amount of rope to tie into your harness by holding the rope at your waist with one hand, then with your other hand, pull the end of the rope up to the limit of your (relaxed) reach. The point where you are holding the rope at your waist is about the right spot to tie your 8 knot. Twist two (twice) and thread it (the end) through (the loop that you formed). Once the 8 knot is in place, thread the end of the rope through the proper point(s) in your harness (Please read your proper harness use directions!). The end of the 8 knot closest to where the rope enters your harness is the point where you must take the end of the rope that goes around the tie-in point(s) of your harness and REthread that end back through the 8. Finally, always backup the tail of your tie-in with a Yosemite Rethread or a Half-Fisherman! (Shown on bottom row.)
Figure 8 On A Bight
Use(s): This is the knot used to attach the rope to an anchor; i.e., to anchor the person tied into the end of the rope to the anchor (you or your partner). In technical rock climbing, while you or your partner are moving on the rope (actually climbing), do NOT use this knot to tie into your harness via a carabiner (see 'Carabiner Limitations' on the 'Technical Downloads!'page for why). If you choose to do so, you or your partner's injury or death will be attributed to 'Natural Selection'.
Helpful Hints: It is preferable to use this knot instead of an Overhand On A Bight, since the 8 will be easier to untie after being loaded.
88 (A.K.A. Double Bight Figure 8)
Use(s): A variation of the Figure 8 On A Bight above, but with two bights of rope to clip into. This works exceptionally well when using a static rope for top rope anchoring when the static rope is used for the master point. The 88 gives you redundancy at a VERY crucial point.
Helpful Hints: There are two methods to tie this knot. The first has the advantage of being easy to learn and when two symmetrical loops (bights) are required. The second method is best used when two dissimilar sized loops (bights) are needed in order to equalize the load on an anchor. However, method two, when tied with one large loop & one very small loop may be used to create a self-equalizing bridle (See: "Self-Equalizing" Knots, below) off of several unquestionably sound anchor points. Once the large loop is clipped to all anchor points, pull portions of this loop down between each anchor point, clipping each portion individually to the small loop. Beware of creating vectors greater than 90 degrees when using this for anchoring. See: "Vectors" in the "Climbing/Rappelling Glossary.pdf" on the 'Technical Downloads!' page.
"Self Equalizing" Knots
There are several loop knots that can be used to share the load between two or more anchor points; most of which are NOT truely self-equalizing, where the loops must be adjusted prior to loading and will not adjust on their own if the load is shifted. If a knot does truely self-equalize, please take into consideration the possibility of the abrading of the load-bearing and mobile nylon-to-nylon surfaces (the rope!). Nylon to metal (a carabiner) in your anchor system is the safest choice when all Hell brakes loose.
However useful, these knots when used in a lead climbing scenario, do not allow the leader a timely advantage for a belay escape/rescue if the situation should arise. If the rope is part of the anchor system, it could possibly cause you take actions that may include rebuilding your anchor system so you may utilize your rope for rescue/retreat. Time-savings can turn into the opposite if these tools are used where implementing a self-rescue may be difficult already.
Therefore, these knots are not covered within the context of this website: Double Bowline, Three-loop Figure of Eight, 88 Self-Equalizing Bridle and the Double and Triple Butterfly. The final mention is quite brilliant in time initiation and ease in adjusting the loops for equalizing and can be found at: Double and Triple Butterfly - Link
Grapevine (A.K.A. Double Fisherman)
Use(s): This knot is used for tying two ends of rope or cord together. It is occasionally used for tying two retrievable rappel ropes together, but it is incredibly difficult to untie once the knot is loaded. The Grapevine is more frequently used for tying cord into a continuous loop for chocks or friction (prussik) loops. Since these are more or less permanent loops, this has been an acceptable practice.
Helpful Hints: Tie one side first by spiraling one end of the rope around twice back (onto itself) towards the main rope then finish by threading the end through the two loops that you just formed. Hey! This is a Half-Fisherman! Then, flip the whole mess over horizontally and tie the same EXACT knot. Pull (load) not the tails of the knot, but the rope that exits out of each side of the knot. The grapevine forms two distinct X's that will mesh tightly together when tied correctly. If you must force the X's to comply, you have made an error. If you do not have X's you did not follow these instructions to spiral the end of the rope back onto itself.
Bowline & Double Bowline
Use(s): The Bowline is an exceptional knot to use when tying a static rope around a large object for anchoring, since it is easy to thread, adjust, and untie after the knot has been loaded.
Helpful Hints: Caution must be used, since the bowline is very easy to tie INCORRECTLY. The Bowline MUST be backed up with a Half Fisherman or a Rethread! This is important, due to the fact that the Bowline requires some load on the knot, or it may loosen and possibly become untied. When tying, notice that no matter how the initial loop for the knot is oriented, the end of the rope will always be threaded through that loop on the same side that the load strand exits that loop. The end is then threaded around the load strand, then back through the initial loop. The tail of the knot should be inside of the main loop. Adjust, then back it up. The Double Bowline merely starts with two initial loops, a bit stronger and more stable than the simple Bowline. It is displayed above showing a rethread back-up.
Water Knot
Use(s): The water knot is the recommended knot for tying the ends of a length of nylon webbing together in order to create a continuous loop. The loops, called slings or runners can be utilized around objects to anchor, fashioning an anchor system, extending the reach from an anchor to the climber, or reducing leverage on the leader's protection.
Helpful Hints: Since nylon web is very slick, make sure that the ends of the web exiting the finished knot are at least 15cm long. Back-up with a Half-Hitch or Half-Fisherman if necessary.
Friction Hitches
The list of hitches below are tied by first, creating a continuous loop of 6mm-7mm static climbing cord, normally tied with a grapevine knot.
Use(s): These are all used in similar manners to grab the rope in order for the climber to ascend up the rope, haul a bag or injured partner (load), to keep the rope (load) from falling back down or to protect a rappel or lower of a climber. All of the below grip multi-directionally, however, most are tied directionally and are best used this way for optimum grip.
Helpful Hints: The cord used for the friction hitch should ideally be a diameter that is >25% & <50% of the rope that you are trying to grab. Make sure that all of your wraps of these hitches are even and untwisted. The key here is to achieve maximum surface area for grip.
Prussik
Uses: This is the most well-known of the group and can be utilized to ascend up the rope, haul a bag or injured partner (load), to keep the rope (load) from falling back down or to protect a rappel, but not very good for protecting the lower of a climber.
Helpful Hints: Notice that it starts as a Girth Hitch. Three wraps are standard.
Autoblock
Uses: This is the most simple of the group and is easily tied with one hand. The autoblock is most commonly used to protect a rappel or lower of a climber.
Helpful Hints: Clip the ends of the loop when finished wrapping with a locking carabiner. When using an Autoblock for backing-up a rappel or lower, Girth Hitch the Autoblock loop to the leg loop of your harness on your brake hand side. Then, add a small locking carabiner to the same leg loop to the side closest to your main tie-in point (the Autoblock will be to the outside). The locking carabiner may now be utilized for attaching the free end of the Autoblock loop after you are done wrapping. This gives you a quick back-up that is difficult to drop and easy to install and remove. Uh, don't forget to lock the gate of the carabiner...
Kleimheist
Uses: Similar to the Autoblock, but instead of clipping both ends of the loop, the loop end furthest from the load (or anchor) is passed through the loop closest to the load (or anchor) giving the Kleimheist an additional camming action.
Bachmann
Uses: The Bachmann is useful when the friction hitch needs to be reset quickly/often or made to be self-tending as in crevasse & self-rescue.
Helpful hints: Unlike the rest of the group, the Bachmann requires the use of a carabiner. It does not matter if the carabiner is locking or not. Most importantly, the carabiner must be of round cross section for friction. Grabbing hold of the carabiner will break the friction and allow the hitch to slide and be moved appropriately. To remove the Bachmann, just unclip the top loop, hold onto the carabiner and pull the cord free.
Munter Hitch
The Munter Hitch can be used in lieu of a mechanical or hip belay (Have you ever "misplaced" your belay device on a climb?) This releasable & reversible belay hitch is indispensable when implementing a rescue of your partner (or your partner of YOU).
Munter-Mule
Uses: The versatile Munter Hitch can be used to belay or lower a climber and can be a rappel device. It is an invaluable tool for securing/releasing the rope while under load for climber self-rescue. The Mule Knot is simply a Slip Knot around the main rope and secures the Munter from slipping. A carabiner seals the deal. The Mule Knot may be used to secure a mechanical belay device (It is very important to check out the details in the hints below for this).
Helpful Hints:
1-Munter. Clip. Twist (clockwise) rope end (you) into a loop. Fold & Clip loop into a locking carabiner (mandatory). Lock the carabiner! Pull rope on load (partner) side to orient hitch. The load strand should now be closest to the spine (the strongest axis) of the carabiner.
2-Mule. Make a loop on rope (you) that exits the Munter (NOT the load strand). It is imperative that the loop does NOT go between either strand that exits the Munter, otherwise, it may jam while releasing the Mule. You want it to be hassle-free, right? Place a bight from the same rope through the loop. Tighten the Mule WITHOUT pulling down and disturbing the Munter. Be sure to keep the Mule as close to the Munter as possible. Note: If you tighten by pulling down on the Mule bight (please do NOT), you could change the orientation of the Munter and the Mule will end up being far enough away from the Munter to allow unwanted slippage.
3-Overhand Back-up. Pull enough bight through the Mule to tie an Overhand On a Bight around the main rope. Secure the bight to the main rope with a carabiner. Caution: Always Lock (the carabiner) BEFORE you load the Munter to orient it.
Note on Mechanical Belay Devices:
The Gri-Gri and Gi-Gi (both very different; similar name) may be secured with the Mule Knot as shown above with the Munter Hitch. All Tube Type Belay Devices, i.e., ATC, Pyramid, BRD require a bight of the brake-hand side rope be placed back through the belay carabiner that holds the device to your harness. This insures the braking action and eliminates any jams so the Mule may eventually be released. After the bight is placed through the belay carabiner, the rope (bight) should be brought up parallel to the load strand (the rope to yer partner). Then, tie the Mule Knot as shown...
Warning with a Tube Type Belay Device:
If the Mule Knot is tied without first placing the rope through the belay carabiner...
1) There will be little braking action to hold the load, causing slippage and
2) The Mule Knot will jam up into the belay device and will be extremely difficult to release once it is loaded. When you have this mastered, check the "Technical Downloads" page for the Climber Self-Rescue Procedure .pdf
Clove Hitch
In lieu of anchoring in with the standard Figure 8 On a Bight, a simple clove hitch may be acceptable, depending on your situation. It is quick, easy and safe.
Uses: As stated above, the Clove Hitch may be used for anchoring your rope.
Helpful Hints: There are two methods shown here for tying the Clove Hitch. The first is the most common (first two rows). The second is the most efficient and time saving, especially when finishing a lead! Just grasp the rope just below your tie-in as if you were to shake someone's hand. Draw the rope up to the anchor using a natural arm motion which should create the required loop in the rope (see photo). Clip that loop to the anchor, as shown. Repeat the same procedure once more, lock the carabiner and you're Off Belay!
When using a Munter Hitch to belay a partner seconding or for top rope belaying from above, the Munter Hitch can easily be changed to a Clove Hitch to anchor your partner once she arrives at the belay. Just repeat the same Twist, fold, clip and lock as stated above for the Munter Hitch. Clove Hitched! Off Belay!
Have you checked your knot(s) lately? photo: Richard Leversee |
"Be like water making its way through cracks. Do not be assertive, but adjust to the object, and you shall find a way round or through it. If nothing within you stays rigid, outward things will disclose themselves."
"Empty your mind, be formless. Shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle and it becomes the bottle. You put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now, water can flow or it can crash. Be water my friend."
- Bruce Lee |
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