the fine print: READ THIS!!
PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY! Outdoor activities including rock climbing have risks and hazards which can cause serious injuries or death. Individuals who apply any of the ideas, concepts or technical information presented on this website agrees to assume any and all risks of injury or death and hold harmless E.C. Joe - Vertical Logistics / vertical20. The user further understands and agrees that this assumption of risk is to be binding to on their heirs and assigns and further agrees to indemnify and to hold E.C. Joe - Vertical Logistics / vertical20 free and harmless from any loss, liability, damage, cost or expense which may incur as a result of any injury, death and/or property damage that they may sustain as a result of utilizing any of the ideas, concepts or technical information presented on this website.
Climbing as experiential education. photo: e.c. joe
CLIMBING GLOSSARY
Whether
you are a climber or not, if you are going to understand anything about
climbing, you need to get the nomenclature down pat. You might as well
sound like you know what your talking about! Below, is a glossary (.pdf) of
climbing terms that is ready to download. Just click on the terms below:
KNOTS TO KNOW for CLIMBING
What knots do you need to master for climbing?
Beyond
the Figure 8 Rethread, Figure 8 On A Bight or the Water Knot there are
many knots that may help insure your success or survival on the rocks.
However, it may just be the level or type of clmbing that you
participate in that will determine how many knots that you should have
in your toolchest. You will find my basic list of Knots to Know through
the graphic page link below:
THE BELAY
It
is imperative that a belayer perform a perfect belay at all times in
order to safeguard his partner. Can you perform a perfect belay? Many
actually cannot. There is no excuse for a shoddy belay. Unfortunately,
the venue of the indoor climbing gym has created a generation of shitty
belayers. More deadly is that most of them are in denial. Have a real
expert review your technique. Practice makes perfect. Understanding
some simple concepts of belaying on this page may help too. Click on the links below: What IS a Belay? .pdf The "Hands Down Belay Method" - link
CLIMBING SIGNALS
I don't care what you learned or unlearned at the climbing gym or camp. Here is a list (.pdf) of the standard communications
between the climber and the belayer. Click below.'Nuff said.
CLIMBING CARABINER LIMITATIONS
The
carabiner is probably the most used item of climbing gear next to the
rope. It is also the most MISused. The biggest misuse is the manner in
which some climbers clip a locking carabiner to their harness in order
to belay or rappel. Check this simple sheet on the carabiner's
limitations, and hey, read the directions on the proper use of your
harness! Carabiner Limitations .pdf Harness Info from Kolin @ Black Diamond Equipment .pdf
CLIMBING ANCHOR FLOWCHART
Check
out this simple flow chart (.pdf) of the protocol for climbing anchoring and
training your mind to the thought process. "Vectors" are not covered in
detail here. Also See: "Vectors" in the Climbing/Rappelling Glossary.pdf
Before you
do any of that, I highly recommend that you read Doug Robinson's:
"The Whole Natural Art of Protection"
The Black Art of Piton Craft
Basic Considerations for Experienced Climbers or Rescue Personnel
by Cyril Shokoples / rescueDynamics.ca
This is an excellent paper (.pdf) on the elements of this "mysterious" craft.
Click on the Lost Arrow to view...
CLIMBER SELF-RESCUE
The basics steps of a rescue from a belay escape to lowering and raising your partner by utilizing mechanical advantage.
Please, practice this on the flats first! Click on the photo below to view the .pdf
THE CLIMBER SELF-RESCUE TEST
After you get the basics of self-rescue down, try this test (first, on the flats) and work it, baby!
Click on the climber below to view:
RELEASABLE RAPPEL
If
you are hosting a group of the inexperienced for rappelling, this is
the way to keep yourself from having to go into full rescue mode if the
rappeller gets stuck. This is 'cheap insurance' to be able to lower a
stuck rappeller to the ground in a safe and timely manner. Those who
feel that this method is too complicated are not thinking of how
complicated and time-consuming a 'rescue' via any of the alternative
methods would be in comparison. (Obviously, they are thinking too much
about themselves and not the people in their charge.) There are venues
that this method will not work efficiently, so consider a different
placewhere it will! (CYA)
The Ten Points of Light
by E.C. Joe
"Double helix in the sky tonight.
Throw out the hardware, let's do it right."
- Steely Dan
It has always been of the upmost importance that climbers have along the proper gear to protect themselves on a climb. Though it's great to "stack the deck" in your favor, there are times that the extra gear is just that. EXTRA.
That "EXTRA" is most likely more weight and bulk. In the "front country" it may not matter much, but in the backcountry trimming every ounce can be the difference between a successful climb or having a debilitating exercise in heavyweight backpacking. I have experienced a bit of both. I've listed ten items that you may consider to "trim the fat" from for your next trip, in the front or backcountry:
1. ROPES: Consider using smaller diameter ropes like 9.8 - 10mm to save weight over your beefy 10.5 - 11mm ones. Also, don't bring too many ropes...
If the number of climbers = X, the quantity of ropes that a climb normally requires = X - 1. This is a good place to start. Of course this formula does not include you (roped) soloists. Big Walls may require an additional Haul Line.
2. CARABINERS: Start using lighter carabiners. Your standard oval carabiner weighs approximately 62 grams. On the extreme end of things, a Kong Helium D or a Black Diamond Neutrino carabiner weighs in at approximately 36 grams; darn near half the weight and significantly stronger as well.
3. PROTECTION: It's important to bring a variety of protection, but leave that extra set of stoppers or cams behind. Two sets may be your maximum!
4. SLINGS: Try using lighter slings. 11/16" special nylon web slings are not only lighter than their 1" brothers but they take up less volume around your neck and backpack. Lighter and stronger slings that do not hold moisture in wet environments are sewn from Spectra or Dyneema with nylon in a 1/2" variety.
5. HARNESS: Think about a lighter harness. Your going to be carrying it, but your going to hang in it as well. Give this serious thought. Don't forget comfort for long hangs.
6. SHOES: Try to bring fewer pairs of shoes. The shoes you hike in could be ones that you can climb reasonably well in (i.e., 5.10 Guide Tennies) too. If your partner wears close to the same size shoes as you, consider trading off one pair of free climbing shoes. Deal with any foot cooties well before your trip (yours or your partners).
7. ACCOMMODATIONS: Don't bring portaledges. Unless you anticipate long spells of inclement weather, it's just too much weight and bulk. Bring hammocks or if possible, try to make it to ledges on the route. A good lightweight waterproof/breathable bivy sack may be mandatory any route.
8. SLEEPING BAGS: In the summer through autumn, don't bring a heavy sleeping bag. Consider bringing a bag rated to 30 - 40 degrees F that weighs 1 - 2.2 lbs. or bring no bag at all. Choices: Down or Synthetic.
9. THE KITCHEN: Try just bringing a 2 -3 liter cookpot (titanium!) to use over a campfire and leave the stove and fuel at home. (Winter / Spring or being above timberline or in the snow are exceptions.)
10. WATER BOTTLES: Start using compressible/collapsable bladders like the Platypus for major water storage. It is still advised to have the good ol' standby soda bottles or nalgene, but for lightness and being compact when empty bladders are hard to beat.
Of course, there are always realistic limitations with everything, i.e., I can remember just having just one headlamp for three of us. 'Not a good idea. Try to determine what is right for you and
Save your energy for the climbing...
What's your vertical "20"?
|
"I am trying to free your mind Neo, but I can only show you the door. You're the one who has to walk through it."
-Morpheus, "The Matrix" |
|
